Notes:
- drop in a gradient background (dark grey on top, medium grey on bottom) to start.
- gradient value opposite of light direction
- Brain interprets "form" change through "value" change, not color change.
- If you have a nice line drawing, you can put it on a top layer and set it to "Multiply" and leave it across the top.
- Whenever you want to introduce a form change, introduce a value change.
- Use simple top lighting.
- Opposite value gradient to main light will ensure the silhouette is always visible.
- Put object on a layer on it's own and check 'preserve transparency' for masking out the background.
- Quick and dirty:
- Use Burn and Dodge tools after setting a medium grey fill on object.
- Dodge on any surfaces where light will hit.
- Perpendicular to the light will be the brightest.
- Tangent to light you get "Core Shadow", aka "Terminator"
- Better way:
- Make a new layer on top.
- Click division line between base and top layer while holding "Alt", and you get a clipping path layer.
- Set to "Multiply" so as to not lose any of the line work.
- Look to the outside of your silhouette, and if it's an undercut, wrap the shadows around to the front surface.
- Again, Tangent to your light source is your "Core Shadow"
- Fill in the "Lights", Fill in the "Darks", then come back and paint in-between the values.
- Since it's on another layer, you can tweak layer opacity to your liking.
- Create "Cleanup" layer on top and add refinement and details.
- Duplicate canopy section and put it on Multiply.
- Paint in the small details inside the canopy.
- paint in driver to show scale.
- paint on specular.
- soft overall
- sharp point highlight
Refinement:
- Take value below from background, and start painting in the bounce light on to the vehicle.
- It's okay to airbrush over the top of line art.
- Make sure bounce light doesn't overpower main light.
- Any forms in the shadow side can be shown using the bounce light.
- Begin switching from line work to "Surface"
- To show nice lines, you need nice Surfaces.
- Two surfaces form an Edge.
- Put "Radius" on the flat panel edges, as well as 'hard' edges.
- Work quickly without zooming in, "Just to make things go bump."
- Form Change = Value Change
- Side profile drawings are a good practice for rendering because you have to work your values.
- Also good to work in grayscale because you can concentrate on form.
- Tutorial currently uses a simple airbrush, but you can use a more textured brush if needed.
- Could use a flattened elliptical brush for more of a 'painterly' look.
- Once you get your base forms working, everything looks 3D, you can go in and start "Sculpting" the form.
- A technique from traditional media, clean up your silhouette with colors from your background.
That's basically it, other than adding in some color and texture on top. More to do:
- Noodle time!:
- keep refining the:
- forms
- volumes
- cut lines
- radii
- fillets
- planes
- adding graphics
- Tip for graphics:
- Marquee areas to be decals
- Duplicate layer with marquee info
- Darken
- Go back and erase to clean up
- Can also continue adding details, like mechanical bits, etc.
- Other render tips:
- Cool to Warm (outdoor rendering)
- "Color Dodge" mode gives very metallic surfaces
- have to go into layer settings and disable:
- Blend Clipped Layers as Group
- Transparency Shape Layers
- CTRL + SHIFT + V: Paste back into place.
- Incorporate value change into reflections.
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